How to make chicken enchiladas the Sonoran way

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Enchiladas in Sonora are not the rolled up, filled tortillas smothered with sauce and a crust of melted cheese that the word may first bring to mind.

Classic enchilada Sonorenses are built with a stack of tortitas de maiz — small patties that can be made using a corn-based dough or with a mixture of corn and potato, as we do in my family to give a lighter texture and flavor — which are layered with shredded chicken bathed in chile Colorado. From there, the enchiladas are topped with either finely cut iceberg lettuce or green cabbage, avocado, cilantro, radishes and fresh Mexican cream for a wonderfully messy plate of simple individual elements creating a complicated whole.

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How to make enchiladas

The simplicity of this dish means that every element should be treated with care.

The poached chicken can be made ahead of time, or even be replaced with store bought rotisserie or pulled chicken with no loss of flavor or pride in the food being made. But be sure to make your own chile Colorado, which is the signature red chile sauce of Sonora and forms the base for many classic dishes, this one included.

The longer the chicken simmers in the chile colorado, the better.

And on their own, the tortitas fritters are a simple effort with a grand reward.

Recipe: Enchiladas Sonorenses

Makes: 4 servings

Step 1: Make shredded chicken in chile Colorado

Skip the first three steps if using pre-cooked chicken and broth. When it comes to making the chile Colorado, The aim is to thicken the sauce enough to coat the back of a spoon, with only a minimal drip coming off it. But, if you’d like to omit the flour used as a thickening agent in this recipe, you can substitute a tablespoon of maseca, or simply leave it out, though the sauce may not thicken quite as much without it.

Ingredients:

For the shredded chicken:

2 pounds boneless skinless chicken thigh or breast
½ small white onion, peeled and cut in half
½ head garlic, lightly crushed
1 tbsp Mexican oregano
1 ½ tsp kosher salt

For the chile Colorado:

2 ounces chile colorado (anaheim/California) chiles
½ small white onion, peeled and cut in half
½ head garlic, peeled
1 tablespoon Mexican oregano
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon all purpose flour
1 cup strained chicken broth, or as needed

Instructions:

Bring 8 cups of water to a slow boil. Carefully add chicken and simmer, watching for any scum forming at the surface and skimming any that appears. After a few minutes, add the onion, garlic, oregano and salt, loosely cover and cook at a steady simmer until chicken is tender, approximately 20 minutes.
Allow the chicken to cool in the broth. Strain cooking liquid and set aside. Once cool enough to handle, shred chicken, but not too finely. Set aside.
To make the chile Colorado, clean the chiles by removing stems, seeds and any large veins and wash well in cold water.
Place chiles in a small pot along with the onion, garlic, oregano and salt. Cover with cold water and bring to a boil. Turn down and cook at a simmer until the chiles are softened, approximately 15 minutes. Once soft, strain and reserve cooking liquid.
Puree the cooked ingredients with just enough of the cooking liquid to keep blender blades moving, adding small amounts as needed. Taste for seasoning, being aware that the sauce will have a slightly metallic taste.
To toast the flour, heat a heavy bottomed large skillet over medium and add flour, stirring continuously till it reaches a light golden color. Add a cup of the strained, reserved chicken broth and whisk to combine.
Once smooth, add chile puree, whisking well. Be sure not to scorch the chile as burning causes it to develop an acrid taste. Simmer for 5 minutes, adding broth as needed to keep a pourable consistency.
Once the chile Colorado is glossy and thick, add shredded chicken, stirring well to combine. The sauce should be able to coat the chicken well and won’t be too runny.
Simmer the chicken in the sauce for at least 10 minutes to allow the flavors to meld together, adding broth as needed.

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Step 2: Make Tortitas de Papa y Maíz

The chicken in chile Colorado can continue to simmer while you make these tortitas. The longer the flavors have to meld, the better.

Ingredients:

½ pound Yukon potatoes, peeled and cut into large pieces.
2 cups harina de maíz (maseca)
2 cups potato cooking liquid, supplement with warm water as needed
Salt, as needed
Oil for frying, as needed

Instructions:

Place potatoes in a pot and cover with cold water, season lightly with salt and cook until fork tender, approximately 20 minutes. Drain, reserving cooking liquid, and allow to cool slightly.
Roughly mash the potatoes, add harina de maíz and mix to incorporate. Add enough of the potato cooking liquid to create a slightly tacky dough that you can easily shape into a smooth ball (but don’t start making dough balls just yet). Taste for seasoning and adjust with salt if necessary. Do not over mix as this can lead to a starchy, gummy dough.
Cover dough with a slightly damp kitchen towel and allow to rest for 5 to 10 minutes, giving time for the corn flour to fully hydrate. If the dough feels too dry after resting, mix in a small amount of warm water, 1 teaspoon at a time. If it feels too damp, mix in maseca, also 1 teaspoon at a time.
Divide dough into 2-inch round portions, rolling them smooth and pressing into patties approximately ¼-inch thick. Do not stack uncooked patties together as they will stick together.
Heat ½-inch or so of oil over medium high heat. Fry patties for approximately 3 to 4 minutes on the first side, flip and cook for another 2 minutes, or until golden brown and crisp. Keep finished patties warm on a wire rack in a warm oven.

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